The following are copies of the documents that were handed out at the Gathering of Gardeners
(If you want a printable copy, scroll to the bottom of each document for a link to a pdf file.)
(If you want a printable copy, scroll to the bottom of each document for a link to a pdf file.)
Beans: Cultural Practices
Soil: best in well drained soil high in organic matter, but will grow in any soil type.
Best in soil with pH of 6.5
Sun/Shade: almost all need full sun.
Exceptions: Withner White Cornfield Bean is shade tolerant, a pole bean bred to grow on corn.
Blackcoat is a Runner bean that is also shade tolerant.
Fertilization: If deficient, add phosphorus and potassium, but not nitrogen, because that could cause interference in the bean's relationship with symbiotic bacteria that supply them with nitrogen. Most soils already have wild bacteria, but if your bean roots do not develop nitrogen nodules, you could purchase species-specific inoculants and apply to next season's seed.
Note: legumes don't contribute nitrogen to other plants they are grown with. They only contribute nitrogen when they decompose. But they won't
compete with other plants for nitrogen.
Inoculants: best for cowpeas (black-eyed peas), soy beans, and fava beans. They are species specific, so read labels. Not typically used with common (green and dry) type beans.
Method: dampen beans (or use soaked beans) in a container, add powdered inoculant, stir to coat, then plant seeds. Or save soil from around plants that were well nodulated, and scatter soil around next year's plantings. Once in the soil, you probably don't need to add inoculants again.
Planting time:
Cool season beans:
Fava beans, Vicia fava: plant Sept. - Nov., or Feb. - March.
Garbanzo beans, Cicer arietinum: Feb. - March.
Lentils, Lens culinaris: (no specific info found, other than cool season)
Warm Season beans:
Common horticultural beans, Phaseolus vulgaris: plant after all risk of frost: late April, early May.
Bush beans can be planted until mid July.
Pole beans through mid June.
Cowpeas, Vigna unguiculata: need 100 days and warmth, perhaps start indoors.
Runner Beans, Phaseolus coccineus (perennial): Conflicting info, whether to plant earlier or later than common
beans.
Soy Beans, Glycine max: need warm soil, late May, early June
Tepary beans, Phaseolus acutifolius: no specific info found
Lima beans, Phaseolus lunatus: our climate is not warm enough.
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
Bean Varieties
As you can see by looking at the chart (reproduced from Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth), there are many different kinds of beans. To make it even more confusing, many of the scientific names have more than one variety, especially for the common bean (Phaseolus Vulgarius). This really only matters to gardeners that want to save their own seed and want it to breed true. If you are not going to save your own seed, then you can plant multiple types of beans in your garden and not worry about cross-pollination.
Genus Species Common Name
Arachis Hypogeal peanut
Cajanus Cajun Pigeon pea
Canavalia Ensiformis Jack bean
Gladiate Sword bean
Cicer Arietinum Garbanzo (chick pea)
Cyamposis Tetragonobus Cluster bean
Dolichnos Lablab Hyacinth bean
Glycine Max soybean
Lens Culinaris lentil
Lupinus Mutabilis tarwi
Pachyrhizus Ahipa ahipa
Erosus Jicama (yam bean)
Tuberose Potato bean
Phaseolus Acutifolius var. Latifolius Tepary bean
Coccineus Runner bean
Lunatus Lima bean (butter bean)
Vulgaris Common bean
Vulgaris subsp. Nunas Nunas (popping Bean)
Pisum Sativum Garden pea, edible Podded pea
Psophocarpus Tetragonolobus Winged bean, Asparagus pea
Vicia Fava Fava bean (broad bean)
Vigna Aconitifolia Moth bean
Angularis Adzuki bean
Mungo Black gram
Radiate Mung bean (green gram)
Umbellate Rice bean
Unguiculata cowpea
Unguiculata var. Sesquipedalis Yard long bean (asparagus bean)
Seed Saving
If you plant one bean variety from each of the Genus/Species, there is no problem with cross pollination. Within a Genus/Species, some bean varieties will cross pollinate. The obvious answer would be to make sure any bean varieties you choose are from separate Genus/Species. However, there does not appear to be a way to look up a bean variety and determine its Genus/Species. And you can’t specify a Genus/Species and get a list of all the bean variety names. To make it worse, many seed catalogs are a bit careless on how they categorize beans. Most do list a number of beans under Phaseolus vulgarius, but then they also list some Phaseolus vulgarius under categories such as “pole beans” or “French beans” or some other commonly used category. In my limited research, they only appear to do that for Phaseolus vulgarius. So this is only a problem for the common bean. Of course, this is the type most people want to grow. For example, if you are thinking of planting a pole bean and a bush bean you may have a problem with cross pollination. Your best bet would be to refer to a book such as Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth for guidance on cross pollination.
You could also separate your bean plantings by time. For example, if you grow a winter or very early spring garden, you could grow peas, fava beans, garbanzos and lentils, and reserve the summer garden for the other types of beans which prefer warmer weather.
Dual and Triple Use of Beans
Many, but not all beans can be eaten in two or three forms. They can be eaten as a green or "snap" bean when the seeds are immature. Some beans can also be eaten as a shellie/shelly bean where you remove the seeds from the pod and eat only the bean. Some beans can also be eaten as a dried or "soup" bean where the seed is removed from the dried pod and only the bean is eaten.
There are exceptions to the above, and care should be taken when deciding how to eat a bean. For example, the Hyacinth bean and the Jack bean can be eaten as a green and shelly bean, but they are toxic as a dried bean. Some beans, such as the Fava or broad beans can be potentially fatal to males of Mediterranean ancestry (the result of an enzyme deficiency commonly called Favism).
References:
Books
Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth, 1991, published by Seed Saver Publications, ISBN 0-9613977-7-2
The Resilient Gardener by Carol Deppe, 2010, published by Chelsea Green Publishing Company, ISBN978-1-60358-031-1
Seed catalogs
Territorial Seed Company: 48 common bean, 3 soybeans, 1 cow pea, 2 yard long beans, 2 runner beans, and 3 favas
John Scheepers: 3 types of peas, no beans
Seed Savers Exchange: 30 common beans, 3 runner bean, 3 lima bean, and 3 soybean
Bountiful gardens: 14 common bean, 1 yard long, 2 cowpea, 2 favas, 1 chickpea, 1 lima bean, 1 moth bean, 1 runner bean, and 2 soybeans
Natural Gardening Company: 8 common bean, 1 fava bean, 1 lima bean, 1 soy bean, and 1 yard long bean
Websites
UC Davis has a good website with general information on growing a large number of vegetables including beans: http://cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/Vegetables/
The University of Santa Cruz has a good website with general information on growing vegetables, nuts and fruit trees. They have a good general write-up for beans: http://casfs.ucsc.edu/documents/for-the-gardener/bean_handout.pdf
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
As you can see by looking at the chart (reproduced from Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth), there are many different kinds of beans. To make it even more confusing, many of the scientific names have more than one variety, especially for the common bean (Phaseolus Vulgarius). This really only matters to gardeners that want to save their own seed and want it to breed true. If you are not going to save your own seed, then you can plant multiple types of beans in your garden and not worry about cross-pollination.
Genus Species Common Name
Arachis Hypogeal peanut
Cajanus Cajun Pigeon pea
Canavalia Ensiformis Jack bean
Gladiate Sword bean
Cicer Arietinum Garbanzo (chick pea)
Cyamposis Tetragonobus Cluster bean
Dolichnos Lablab Hyacinth bean
Glycine Max soybean
Lens Culinaris lentil
Lupinus Mutabilis tarwi
Pachyrhizus Ahipa ahipa
Erosus Jicama (yam bean)
Tuberose Potato bean
Phaseolus Acutifolius var. Latifolius Tepary bean
Coccineus Runner bean
Lunatus Lima bean (butter bean)
Vulgaris Common bean
Vulgaris subsp. Nunas Nunas (popping Bean)
Pisum Sativum Garden pea, edible Podded pea
Psophocarpus Tetragonolobus Winged bean, Asparagus pea
Vicia Fava Fava bean (broad bean)
Vigna Aconitifolia Moth bean
Angularis Adzuki bean
Mungo Black gram
Radiate Mung bean (green gram)
Umbellate Rice bean
Unguiculata cowpea
Unguiculata var. Sesquipedalis Yard long bean (asparagus bean)
Seed Saving
If you plant one bean variety from each of the Genus/Species, there is no problem with cross pollination. Within a Genus/Species, some bean varieties will cross pollinate. The obvious answer would be to make sure any bean varieties you choose are from separate Genus/Species. However, there does not appear to be a way to look up a bean variety and determine its Genus/Species. And you can’t specify a Genus/Species and get a list of all the bean variety names. To make it worse, many seed catalogs are a bit careless on how they categorize beans. Most do list a number of beans under Phaseolus vulgarius, but then they also list some Phaseolus vulgarius under categories such as “pole beans” or “French beans” or some other commonly used category. In my limited research, they only appear to do that for Phaseolus vulgarius. So this is only a problem for the common bean. Of course, this is the type most people want to grow. For example, if you are thinking of planting a pole bean and a bush bean you may have a problem with cross pollination. Your best bet would be to refer to a book such as Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth for guidance on cross pollination.
You could also separate your bean plantings by time. For example, if you grow a winter or very early spring garden, you could grow peas, fava beans, garbanzos and lentils, and reserve the summer garden for the other types of beans which prefer warmer weather.
Dual and Triple Use of Beans
Many, but not all beans can be eaten in two or three forms. They can be eaten as a green or "snap" bean when the seeds are immature. Some beans can also be eaten as a shellie/shelly bean where you remove the seeds from the pod and eat only the bean. Some beans can also be eaten as a dried or "soup" bean where the seed is removed from the dried pod and only the bean is eaten.
There are exceptions to the above, and care should be taken when deciding how to eat a bean. For example, the Hyacinth bean and the Jack bean can be eaten as a green and shelly bean, but they are toxic as a dried bean. Some beans, such as the Fava or broad beans can be potentially fatal to males of Mediterranean ancestry (the result of an enzyme deficiency commonly called Favism).
References:
Books
Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth, 1991, published by Seed Saver Publications, ISBN 0-9613977-7-2
The Resilient Gardener by Carol Deppe, 2010, published by Chelsea Green Publishing Company, ISBN978-1-60358-031-1
Seed catalogs
Territorial Seed Company: 48 common bean, 3 soybeans, 1 cow pea, 2 yard long beans, 2 runner beans, and 3 favas
John Scheepers: 3 types of peas, no beans
Seed Savers Exchange: 30 common beans, 3 runner bean, 3 lima bean, and 3 soybean
Bountiful gardens: 14 common bean, 1 yard long, 2 cowpea, 2 favas, 1 chickpea, 1 lima bean, 1 moth bean, 1 runner bean, and 2 soybeans
Natural Gardening Company: 8 common bean, 1 fava bean, 1 lima bean, 1 soy bean, and 1 yard long bean
Websites
UC Davis has a good website with general information on growing a large number of vegetables including beans: http://cagardenweb.ucanr.edu/Vegetables/
The University of Santa Cruz has a good website with general information on growing vegetables, nuts and fruit trees. They have a good general write-up for beans: http://casfs.ucsc.edu/documents/for-the-gardener/bean_handout.pdf
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
Green Beans
Green beans come in two different shapes – round and flat. The round beans, like Blue Lake and the very slim haricots verts, need to be cooked quickly in order to preserve their delicate flavor and crispness. Flat beans such as Romano benefit from longer cooking since they take a few minutes to tenderize. Flat beans seem to have a beanier flavor.
Both round and flat green beans come in bush and pole varieties. They are advantages to each:
Pole beans start bearing a little later, but have a longer harvest.
Bush beans bear earlier, so you can start picking them sooner. Early bearing is an asset in a short season climate.
Pole beans are easier to pick. They ripen a few at a time, which is good for eating fresh.
Bush beans are harder to pick. They tend to come in a flush which is good for preserving.
Pole beans occupy space for the entire season, they don’t fit into short rotation schedules.
Bush beans take two to three times as much land for the same yield as pole beans.
Pole beans require supports that are 5 to 8 feet tall. They cast a lot of shade, which may limit where you can plant them.
As a general rule, the pole beans do much better in cooler summers, and bush beans do well in moderate to hot summers. There are numerous types of beans in both growth habits and a few, such as Blue Lake, can be found in both climbing and bush form.
Idea: (from Burpee)
Pole beans can be grown on a teepee or into a playhouse for young children. Try mixing a purple pole bean variety with a climbing nasturtium for a colorful walled playhouse that is both fun and good to harvest.
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene8f63.html
http://www.burpee.com/gardenadvicecenter/vegetables/beans/growing-beans---pole-or-bush/article10325.html
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
Green beans come in two different shapes – round and flat. The round beans, like Blue Lake and the very slim haricots verts, need to be cooked quickly in order to preserve their delicate flavor and crispness. Flat beans such as Romano benefit from longer cooking since they take a few minutes to tenderize. Flat beans seem to have a beanier flavor.
Both round and flat green beans come in bush and pole varieties. They are advantages to each:
Pole beans start bearing a little later, but have a longer harvest.
Bush beans bear earlier, so you can start picking them sooner. Early bearing is an asset in a short season climate.
Pole beans are easier to pick. They ripen a few at a time, which is good for eating fresh.
Bush beans are harder to pick. They tend to come in a flush which is good for preserving.
Pole beans occupy space for the entire season, they don’t fit into short rotation schedules.
Bush beans take two to three times as much land for the same yield as pole beans.
Pole beans require supports that are 5 to 8 feet tall. They cast a lot of shade, which may limit where you can plant them.
As a general rule, the pole beans do much better in cooler summers, and bush beans do well in moderate to hot summers. There are numerous types of beans in both growth habits and a few, such as Blue Lake, can be found in both climbing and bush form.
Idea: (from Burpee)
Pole beans can be grown on a teepee or into a playhouse for young children. Try mixing a purple pole bean variety with a climbing nasturtium for a colorful walled playhouse that is both fun and good to harvest.
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene8f63.html
http://www.burpee.com/gardenadvicecenter/vegetables/beans/growing-beans---pole-or-bush/article10325.html
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
Inoculating Bean Seeds
What is it, and why do it?
Plants in the legume family (peas, beans, clovers, vetch, etc) are able to absorb nitrogen from the air and convert it into a form the plants can use. They do so via a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria, usually various types of Rhizobacteria. The bacteria invade the plant roots and live off the plant’s carbohydrates, while at the same time converting nitrogen the plant obtains from the air into a form the plant can use. These bacteria occur naturally in the soil, but often not in optimum quantities. Adding these bacteria to the soil or seed via inoculation will generally increase yield. In addition, if, at the end of the season, the plants are tilled into the soil, that nitrogen will be available to the next crop planted.
How and with what?
Each type of legume requires a certain type of bacteria, so it is important to choose the product that contains the right bacteria for the crop you want to grow. Several companies catering to home gardeners have a product that has a combination of several types of Rhizobacteria mixed with powdered peat moss for the most common home garden crops. For example, one from Johnny’s seeds has the correct bacteria for green beans, dry beans, and lima beans, as well as peas. The most common recommendation on how to use it is to dampen the seeds, then sprinkle them with, or roll them around in, the inoculant powder immediately before planting. The inoculant is a living product and must be stored carefully. It has a limited shelf life of about one year. Unused portions should be refrigerated. You can’t overdo it, higher amounts of inoculants have produced better results.
Don’t use a nitrogen fertilizer if you inoculate: the plants will use it before they make any of their own. Using inoculants every 2 to 3 years is recommended, though many gardeners do so every year.
Idea: Share inoculants among neighbors
Johnny’s seeds and others have combo inoculants food for several crops. A small package will treat up to 50 lbs of seed.
http://extension.psu.edu/plants/crops/forages/successful-forage-establishment/inoculation-of-legumes-for-maximum-nitrogen-fixation
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
What is it, and why do it?
Plants in the legume family (peas, beans, clovers, vetch, etc) are able to absorb nitrogen from the air and convert it into a form the plants can use. They do so via a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria, usually various types of Rhizobacteria. The bacteria invade the plant roots and live off the plant’s carbohydrates, while at the same time converting nitrogen the plant obtains from the air into a form the plant can use. These bacteria occur naturally in the soil, but often not in optimum quantities. Adding these bacteria to the soil or seed via inoculation will generally increase yield. In addition, if, at the end of the season, the plants are tilled into the soil, that nitrogen will be available to the next crop planted.
How and with what?
Each type of legume requires a certain type of bacteria, so it is important to choose the product that contains the right bacteria for the crop you want to grow. Several companies catering to home gardeners have a product that has a combination of several types of Rhizobacteria mixed with powdered peat moss for the most common home garden crops. For example, one from Johnny’s seeds has the correct bacteria for green beans, dry beans, and lima beans, as well as peas. The most common recommendation on how to use it is to dampen the seeds, then sprinkle them with, or roll them around in, the inoculant powder immediately before planting. The inoculant is a living product and must be stored carefully. It has a limited shelf life of about one year. Unused portions should be refrigerated. You can’t overdo it, higher amounts of inoculants have produced better results.
Don’t use a nitrogen fertilizer if you inoculate: the plants will use it before they make any of their own. Using inoculants every 2 to 3 years is recommended, though many gardeners do so every year.
Idea: Share inoculants among neighbors
Johnny’s seeds and others have combo inoculants food for several crops. A small package will treat up to 50 lbs of seed.
http://extension.psu.edu/plants/crops/forages/successful-forage-establishment/inoculation-of-legumes-for-maximum-nitrogen-fixation
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
Nutrition and Cooking of Dry Beans
Beans are nutrient-dense foods and the richest source of protein we can find in the plant world. Being legumes, they are able to fix nitrogen from the air and store it in their seeds, the beans. Nitrogen is a building block of protein. Meals that combine beans with other whole grains such as rice and corn can supply our bodies with all of the essential amino acids, forming a complete protein source. In many parts of the world, these legume/grain combinations provide a substantial proportion of the population’s dietary protein.
Beans are an excellent source of vitamins and minerals. They are rich in B vitamins as well as the minerals copper, phosphorus, manganese and magnesium. Although iron content varies from one bean variety to another, most are rich sources of iron. Beans also contain both omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.
Traditional societies whose cuisines are based on legumes prepare them with great care, soaking them, rinsing them, and skimming off foam during cooking. These steps neutralize phytic acid and enzyme inhibitors on the surface of the beans and break down difficult-to-digest complex sugars, rendering the beans easier to digest and their nutrients easier to assimilate.
Beans cooking preparation to maximize flavor, digestibility, and assimilation of nutrients:
References: Nourishing Traditions, by Sally Fallon; The Resilient Gardener, by Carol Deppe; The Rancho Gordo Heirloom Bean Grower’s Guide, by Steve Sando; “The Nutritional Value of Dry Beans” by Susan Raatz, the Bean Institute
For more reading:
Cooking with beans
http://www.bonappetit.com/test-kitchen/primers/article/how-to-cook-with-beans?mbid=social_facebook
Pulses – aka dried beans, lentils, peas and chickpeas are climate change-fighting super crops that provide people with an inexpensive and sustainable source of delicious protein. To help promote these amazing plants and their benefits for our health and environment, the UN declared 2016 to be the International Year of Pulses (IYP).
http://gracelinks.org/blog/6566/can-dried-beans-help-save-the-world
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
Beans are nutrient-dense foods and the richest source of protein we can find in the plant world. Being legumes, they are able to fix nitrogen from the air and store it in their seeds, the beans. Nitrogen is a building block of protein. Meals that combine beans with other whole grains such as rice and corn can supply our bodies with all of the essential amino acids, forming a complete protein source. In many parts of the world, these legume/grain combinations provide a substantial proportion of the population’s dietary protein.
Beans are an excellent source of vitamins and minerals. They are rich in B vitamins as well as the minerals copper, phosphorus, manganese and magnesium. Although iron content varies from one bean variety to another, most are rich sources of iron. Beans also contain both omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.
Traditional societies whose cuisines are based on legumes prepare them with great care, soaking them, rinsing them, and skimming off foam during cooking. These steps neutralize phytic acid and enzyme inhibitors on the surface of the beans and break down difficult-to-digest complex sugars, rendering the beans easier to digest and their nutrients easier to assimilate.
Beans cooking preparation to maximize flavor, digestibility, and assimilation of nutrients:
- In a pot, wash the beans several times, swishing them in clean water each time.
- Fill the pot with cold water and let it sit for at least half an hour. This hydrates the skins so they won’t split during cooking.
- Drain and refill with fresh water.
- Stir occasionally so that the beans at the bottom get enough oxygen to stay alive.
- Replace the water after 4 or 5 hours.
- Soak overnight. All beans should be plumped out before cooking.
- Pour off the water, rinse, and add fresh water before starting to cook.
- Bring to a boil and skim off the foam*
- Reduce the heat. Add garlic and other seasonings.
- Simmer until cooked.
- Don’t add salt, vinegar or tomato until later, as they prevent the beans from softening.
References: Nourishing Traditions, by Sally Fallon; The Resilient Gardener, by Carol Deppe; The Rancho Gordo Heirloom Bean Grower’s Guide, by Steve Sando; “The Nutritional Value of Dry Beans” by Susan Raatz, the Bean Institute
For more reading:
Cooking with beans
http://www.bonappetit.com/test-kitchen/primers/article/how-to-cook-with-beans?mbid=social_facebook
Pulses – aka dried beans, lentils, peas and chickpeas are climate change-fighting super crops that provide people with an inexpensive and sustainable source of delicious protein. To help promote these amazing plants and their benefits for our health and environment, the UN declared 2016 to be the International Year of Pulses (IYP).
http://gracelinks.org/blog/6566/can-dried-beans-help-save-the-world
Click here for a pdf copy of this document.
